Professional-grade colour film processing equipment for consistently excellent results We develop your colour film and provide you with high-quality digital images and/or prints that capture the essence of your memories. I've got a "processing" highlight on my instagram you can see some of the process and results on there.Our Colour C-41 Film Processing service is perfect for those who still love the art of film photography but want the convenience of digital images. Especially if you're comfortable processing still film. At home, it's impossible not to get some even if you clean it.Īll that to say, it's feasible. They use specialized machines and hardly any dust gets in there at all. Also even with LOMO tanks, it will never ever be as clean as lab processing. Other than that, drying is ridiculous because 50ft of film spaghetti is a lot to try. It's just that you can't really check to see if it's loaded right with how the spirals work. ![]() It's a weird process but once you get the hang of it, you should be ok. I'd say watch some YouTube tutorials a few times and practice with some leader/old film A LOT before trying it. (*my comment earlier was that I actually have processed color negative as reversal but that was more of an experimental thing for a workshop)Īs far as challenges, the main thing is loading the tank. Which is why normal labs won't process motion film with remjet. Also some remjet will come off into your chems effectively ruining them for normal C41. This will probably introduce scratches no matter how soft you are. (This is what CineStill removes so you can process the film at any lab.) You can process your film in the C41 chems and then once done, you'll have to take a wet sponge and ideally some borax water and basically run your film through it to remove the black remjet. Problem is that Vision3 film has remjet which is a black backing on the film. You can cross process it in C41 chems and get similar enough results. Technically Vision3 film is meant for ECN-2 process and those chems are a bit harder to come by. I've done it a decent amount and you can get solid results.įor color negative, it's trickier. Overall the look is great and comes out well.įor color reversal, you do the same as above as far as loading but you use an E6 kit like the ones available from Tetenal or Arista. You may want to invest in some S-hooks to hang the film dry once processed as 50ft is A LOT. Then I think the D-19 might have the dev times on there or else you can probably google it for B&W reversal. So you get that tank, learn the tricky way of loading it then you can process in daylight!!įor B&W you can use D-19 developer from Photographer Formulary and then some Kodak powered bleach. And a tiny scratch on 8mm film is actually huge. ![]() (Otherwise you're processing it in a bucket and that will introduce A LOT of scratches in your film. The tanks are really only available from USSR territories and take about a month to arrive. You'll need a UPB-1A model that fits 50ft of film on each spiral (there are two in each tank so you can do 100 ft total). Not color negative yet (per se*) because it's an annoying process I'll get into later.īasically the best way to do it that is similar to 35mm/120 developing is to buy a LOMO tank off eBay. I've processed B&W reversal and color reversal in Super 8 a bunch of times.
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